A few things to ponder when in Japan:
- No tipping. For Westerners this is such a convenience. No one has to guess what is the appropriate amount to tip in a foreign land. No worries, just pay the bill and say "Arigato gozaimash'ta."
- No littering. You will find that Japan is the cleanest country on earth. There simply is no garbage around. This was a complete mystery to me, given my knowledge of human tendencies, and the scarcity of waste receptacles on Japan streets (and the ones I did spy were small and full). Do people just carry their trash around with them for blocks? Are the receptacles disguised? But even cigarette butts (and the Japanese like to smoke) are rarely seen. Nice. After some more education on the Shinto religion, it became apparent that cleanliness is part of the culture of Japan, as Shinto puts a premium on purity and cleanliness.
- No soap. Another mystery, especially as the influenza virus was at panic level during our time in Japan (many, many people wearing masks: all school age children and teachers). Masks are not that useful for preventing viral transmission, but hand washing with soap and water is quite proven as preventive maintenance. A few days into our trip we did start to see alcohol solutions in stores and tour buses. But you will not find soap in many public restrooms.
- You will need an instruction manual for the operation of the toilets in Japan, and fortunately they will be found on the hotel toilets themselves. Public restrooms will often have a Western-style option, along with the more traditional Japanese squat-type. The hotel versions are typically European-style, bidet toilets. Find out how to stop the thing first! Another facet of some public restrooms that you will find in the gardens and parks: they are completely viewable, even the women's section. For such a seemingly private culture, this is unfathomable to me. Perhaps people tramping by simply continue to look forward and down at the ground, as is a Japanese person's wont. I suppose, in that case, doors are entirely optional. But they should know this puts us Western folk at a decided disadvantage. We were told that one of the necessities for Japan travel was a handkerchief for drying the hands in restrooms, as paper towels are not available (though sometimes blowers are). This isn't a big deal; you can dry your hands by air drying or by running them through your hair, as I do.
- Breakfast, Japanese-style. If you go to Japan, I cannot imagine that you would want to have Western food, so a note on the Japanese menu: expect anything for breakfast. Breakfast is an important Japanese meal. The hotels I have stayed at included both Western and Japanese buffet lines. You will find spaghetti, fish (mainly salmon), salad, gelatin, and, of course, tofu and rice. Rice is the main dish in Japan and is included in all meals; you eat it last, generally. You will find boiled eggs: put this in a bowl of rice and mix it around (quite yummy) with your chopsticks—learn to use these—don't be a tourist! There is a kind of compressed, rolled egg that is kind of like scrambled eggs. Tofu with sauce. Vegetable concoctions. Miso soup is a staple. Noodles. Hot dogs (called sausages, but they're hot dogs) with a spicy mustard (again quite yummy). If you are wondering what to do with some kind of food, just ask: the Japanese are very accommodating and they seem to know we haven't a clue. Coffee is included along with fruits and tea. As I said, breakfast is a big deal here.
- Language. You can get around if you don't know a lick of Japanese, but it does help to know some, especially "Arigato," "konnichi-wa," "hai," "credit cardo?" and, if you are like me and a coffee hound, "kohee." You will find "kohee" in the vending machines, but often cold. (Try the milk tea, it is quite good.) You can bring an electronic translator along, a dictionary, or just wing it.
- JR rail system. The best way around the station (not the subway—see below—but the country wide Shinkasen system—is to find the Shinkasen sign and show your pass to one of the attendants there. They will smile and wave you through. Find the ticket office for the JR trains and tell them your destination. They'll look it up, tell you or show you the next train and issue you a ticket. You don't need the ticket, but take it anyway, as it gives you a reserved seat and the chance to ask for the platform number and directions. The first three cars in a Shinkasen train are all unreserved and you can sit anywhere, but if it is a busy time of year you might be out of luck, so get the ticket. Note on the ticket the time of departure and the car number. Before leaving the ticket counter ask for the track number! This makes it much easier to find the train. After, simply find the track and wait for the train. Easy.
- Subways. Our experience with the subway system was limited to Tokyo so these comments are for that city's system. Once you enter the station find the ticket sign and go to the ATM-like devices. Look at the map above, hopefully in English. (It might be a good idea to print out an English map of the Tokyo subway prior to leaving and have it handy: you can get it here http://www.tokyometro.jp/rosen/rosenzu/pdf/rosen_eng.pdf ). Find the station for your destination. You will see the number (in Yen) next to it. Put a 1000 Yen note in the machine and click on the number of tickets you want and the amount of the ticket. If you are unsure of the amount you do have the option to select the lowest amount and when at the destination station you can make a fare adjustment. The Japanese like to make things simple and workable. They succeed. Find the correct train and put the ticket in the first slot. The ticket will come out at the farther end. Don't forget to pick take it. Get on the train and when you've arrived at your destination go to the exit and put the ticket in. You won't have to pick it up; your fare will be correct (unless adjusted) and the machine will keep the ticket.
Escalators. In Tokyo you stand on the left, allowing those in a hurry to pass on the right. In Kyoto, the reverse is true. Don't know why. Of course, this also applies to stairways.
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